This is the first post in the Expedition/Outfitting category of the West African Wander blog, one year after we first purchased the vehicle. That delayed post is terribly misleading, in fact we started thinking about outfitting very early, and even purchased a National Luna 52 litre fridge in late 2010 before we even bought the Land Rover to put it in. Since then the focus has definitely been on restoring the basic vehicle (see post on a Look Back at the Year), but we have made a number of purchases that fall into the outfitting category. This post is going to provide a brief picture of where we want to get to.
The idea for the six-week trip is to spend much of the time camping, interspersed with hotel stays. That means we need to outfit the Defender to sleep, cook, eat , wash and various other sundry activities. Laura and I very much enjoy the outdoors and have done lots (I mean lots!) of camping, including car and canoe camping in Canada and backpacking in Costa Rica. However our overland vehicle experience is limited to the week we rented an outfitted Defender from Bushlore in Johannesburg in 2010 and took it up the Sani pass into Lesotho (see separate post TESTING THE IDEA). We had also rented a small motorhome van with our daughter Katherine to do a trip through the Alberta foothills years ago on the way to our niece’s wedding in Waterton Lakes National Park. Not exactly off road or as immediately relevant to a Defender, but it still provided some exposure to independent vehicle camping.
Essentially our approach is to think in terms of systems, a preliminary list of which could include:
Electrical: We will install a dual battery system where the first battery is devoted to keeping the motor running and a second serves to power camping accessories when the motor is not running, such as a fridge, lights, sound system, computer, etc. Solar power back-up will also be useful.
Cooking/eating: In South Africa we carried two propane tanks with fitting burners. We need to find out what fuel supply is most available in the area we are covering and design a system to fit that. Cooking and eating utensils also fall into this system, as do a table and perhaps a shade/rain awning.
Sleeping: Basically, a tent to protect from the elements. We really liked the roof-top tent we used in South Africa/Lesotho and just need to figure out how to get one into Ghana.
Water: We need water for washing and potable water for drinking and cooking. Options for either include storage tanks installed in the wheel wells or the back seat interior floor or jerry cans mounted on the side or the roof. Safe weight distribution, specifically the need not to put too much weight on the roof, is one of the considerations that favours the storage tank system. Water sources will be limited and for drinking water we may need to rely on buying commercial bottles and just store those. Some way of purifying water, and cleaning fruit and vegetables, will also be necessary.
Lighting: This close to the equator it gets dark at 18:00 every night so having sufficient exterior light to be able to use and enjoy evenings is very important. I would also like to have additional driving lights as a backup in case of system failure or in the event of sandstorms. And extra driving lights on a 4×4 look so cool…..
Recovery: This is the term the 4×4 off-roaders use to refer to getting unstuck. It is probably not worth investing in a winch because we are not planning or expecting to do much off-roading, but a tow-rope, whether for our benefit or for others, is probably a good idea, as would be jumper cables. This category could also include a tire pump and sand ladders of some sort.
Maintenance: This is about the tools that are required to address the most likely problems that might arise.
Storage: All the systems mentioned above imply some need for storage, indeed water and fuel systems are essentially storage systems. However, we need to think about accessible storage for all the kitchen gear, food, clothes, tools and accessories. The refrigerator is an important component of storage.
In addition to these these “systems”, there will no doubt be other things that will come up as we learn more about “overlanding”. From now on most posts will be in the outfitting category.
It has now been a year since we took delivery of the an old Land Rover Defender in very poor condition with the intention of nursing it back to sound mechanical health and outfitting it for a trip somewhere in West Africa. It is a good time for a review, which in effect is a summary of the blog posts over the past year.
Mechanical: While it was sold as a “drivable vehicle”, the Defender we bought in February 2011 hardly met that criterion. The alternator was gone and the battery very low so it did not really start. The motor smoked badly and much of the running gear – clutch, brakes, wheel bearings, etc. , were badly in need of renewal. By June, within 3 months or so of purchase, we had replaced the TDI300 motor, all hoses, all the clutch and brake pieces, wheel bearings, track rod ends, front differential and front propshaft. The motor was a bit of a high stakes gamble, but it is one that so far seems to have paid off, because it is running so well and there are no leaks and I have not noticed any oil consumption. The first phase of the mechanical work also included installation of new heavy duty Biltstein shock absorbers all around and replacement of the original rubber bushes (the pieces that go between the chassis and all the suspension and axles) with high quality polybushes. As a result the ride is smooth and confident. The Defender seems to be able to perform in all the gear settings, high and low and two and four wheel drive, although we have yet to take it on any off-road tracks. Little things that did not work before, like the fuel gauge and hand brake, now work. Even the clock works.
Bodywork: The body was essentially sound, but with plenty of dings and dents in the aluminum body and rust at the base of the doors, a common affliction with Land Rovers where the aluminum body comes into contact with the steel door frame and water can be present. Particularly severely rusted were the foot wells, the drivers side right through to daylight. By September, within 6 months or so, the body had been completely restored, including installation of new foot wells and repair of any dents in the skin. The doors had been rehung with new hinge screws and any rusted door frames replaced. The bonnet latch which did not work now does, complete with a new functioning security cable from the interior. The broken rear “safari” door frame has been repaired. The windows that rattled no longer rattle. The door steps have been completely reconstructed. The front bumper has been straightened. The front grille has been (broken by someone at Opere’s and) repaired. The Defender has been completely cleaned inside and out, and rust removed from underneath. It has been repainted, and it is beautiful. We purchased and installed a new Defender decal for the front of the bonnet. Remaining bodywork includes the installation of the chequerplate aluminum panels on the fenders and bonnet and insertion of the new locks on the front and rear doors, and new Tdi 300 decals.
Air Conditioning: Within seven months the old air conditioning system that did not work had been replaced with an old air conditioning system that does work, sort of. This aspect does not inspire confidence and we may yet soon find we have to take advantage of those cute uber-functional vents that open an close in the bulkhead below the windscreen to keep us cool when the air conditioning system fails. I am rather sure it will, you get what you pay for and we did not pay very much.
Electrical: Within eight months the basic electrics mostly worked (lights, horn, wipers), and the contract is signed and parts procured for new lighting inside and out. Like the air conditioning the quality of the electrical work is a bit dubious and will require some careful monitoring to have Phase Two of the electrical completed properly, which includes the installation of a dual battery system and various accessories like the fridge (purchased in South Africa more than a year ago), fog and rear area lights.
Interior: The interior was worn and dirty, with the front seats on their second cover, consisting of old flour bags. Something which we did not really notice until now is the condition of the ceiling roof lining, which was taken out and stored at Opere’s Land Rover farm when the body work was being done. 15 years of road dirt and seasonal harmatan dust had left the light grey lining a dark shade of brown that spews dirt on slapping.
By December, within 10 months, the interior had been ompletely stripped, cleaned and repainted.
The vehicle has been soundproofed throughout, with material brought in from Canada.
The front seats have new foams and covers from Exmoor Trim, the front seats slide back and forth and the backs adjust. The back seats have new foam and covers locally done and the cargo area seats have been removed to make space for expedition gear storage.
We have also purchased other important bits and pieces, like the door locks, although those have yet to be installed. Removal of all the interior decor and seats is an achievement that is also worth noting – it took a lot of time and painstaking work, much of it done ourselves. do Having stripped it down not only allowed for a good clean paint job inside, it also made the interior soundproofing and carpeting easier. Just this week we have taken the final step in the restoration stage with signature of a contract to redo that dirty and ugly roof liner and install carpet in the front and back seats, with vinyl in the rear. With that the restoration/upgrading will be complete to our satisfaction.
One minor disappointment on the interior was the failure to find a used Discovery I back seat to replace the Defender bench-like back seat in order to acheive greater comfort for passengers. As an alternative I am going to try to customize the old Defender seat a few inches further back and lower down to gain leg and head-room, but I am not sure this is worth it. We are outfitting this vehicle for expedition and do not expect to carry passengers for very long once we hit the road. The best arrangement might be to to retain the 1/3 portion of the back seat split and devote the rest to expedition gear and storage.
How much did it cost?: It is also appropriate at this point to look at the cost to date. I believe the accrual accounting method would just look at what we have actually installed to date, but if I add everything up that we have actually spent, cost of parts, shipping, and installation, it comes to is almost CAD 9,500, including the rebuild Tdi 300 motor, and all the body work and paining. That can be rounded up to CAD 10,000, for all the odds and ends and sundry labour and dashes that I did not write down. That sounds like a lot, and it is twice the original purchase price. With that we will have a completely restored vehicle for something in the neighbourhood of CAD 15,000. That is about 50% more than the GHC 14,000 (CAD 9,250) price that Opere wanted for a 1995 Defender 110 he had redone himself. However, there are some important improvements that justify the additional cost:
The fact that the vehicle needed so much work means that more of the vehicle has probably been renewed than if I had purchased another that had been done by Opere.
With a couple of important exceptions (A/C and motor) the parts in our restoration are all new, and most are genuine Land Rover or Original Equipment Manufacturer. We know exactly where they came from.
The material and workmanship of the interior finish and upholstery is of much greater quality than what is done here.
Our cost includes soundproofing, which does not appear to be done here at all.
We have a very good roof rack and ladder, which will be a tremendous boon to organize for expedition.
Preparation for and implementation of the painting is of a high quality, and the paint job is two tone, and includes the wheels and roof rack and ladder.
It is also worth mentioning that one of the objectives of the DIY approach was to be able to become acquainted with the vehicle. I am still far from being a Landy expert, and there are whole systems that I do not really have a first-hand knowledge of, but I have been able to gain a great deal of familiarity with this vehicle, far more than I ever would have been able to had I purchased it rebuilt.
Last and not least, over the past year managing the restoration ourselves has been a fabulous window on Ghana, offering an access to the day-to-day culture that we would not otherwise have had. I have met a whole bunch of everyday Ghanaians and been able to gain new understanding of how they think and work.
There is no question I underestimated the amount of work this vehicle needed. I negotiated hard for the vehicle but I did not negotiate as hard as I should have, I think I took a sense of false confidence from Opere who referred me to the vendor Gomez. The EPA Defender had been driven hard, maintained poorly and stripped of many parts before it was sold. I knew it would be necessary to replace the engine and running gear like the clutch and brakes, but I did not expect to have to replace the front differential, or to be annoyed by the absence of small but very important things like the fuel sender unit, or the parking brake shoes (which Opere felt so ripped off about he actually “dashed” the parts to me). However, we probably now own the best 15 year old Defender in the country, and we are not finished yet. We have definitely raised the bar for Opere and his crew, this Defenders seems to get the attention of everyone coming in to the shop with their own, which pretty much all pale in comparison.
It is now reasonable to say that the restoration portion of the project is pretty much complete. The focus now has to shift to all the extras required for expediton outfitting. We started that with our trip to South Africa in December 2010 before we owned the Defender, and came back with a fridge, stover burners and a bunch of other things.We now have to shift to the outfitting stage. There are things we have purchased and not yet installed (ie. fridge, chequerplate aluminum panels, dual battery isolator, camp gear) and lots more we have yet to purchase (roof top tent, camp table, awning, mobile storage system, water storage system, sound system, etc.) but most of that falls outside the scope of the restoration phas.e. Expedition outfitting will easily add between CAD 3,ooo and CAD 4,000 to the cost, and most of it will have to be (or already has been) imported.
We are going to have to pick up the pace to be able to be expedition- ready in six months. The internal storage system still has to be designed and installed, including potable water system. We will need a rooftop tent and awning. a camp table. a cookstove, and various other accessories. We have started to accumulate the gear, including the fridge we bought in South Africa last year. One more holiday in South Africa would certainly come in handy, there are literally dozens of supply places there, and not a single one here.
The task which I should have mentioned first is to obtain legal registration and insurance. All the shuttling back and forth between shops and more recently, just running errands, have been done quite illegally. I was stopped by a policemen recently, who told me to do up my seat belt, which I did, I did not have the heart to tell him the ends were just hanging off the sides of the seats without being bolted to anything. The seat belts are now reinstalled, the lights all work, and I have all the papers to be able to register it. Top priority now is to go to the Vehicle Licensing Authority to make it legal. Can’t wait to get those red DP plates on it. There is a backstory to that, but it warrants a separate post.