Akureyri

Akureyri, the ‘Capital of the North’ and Iceland’s second largest city, is quite a pleasant spot to visit. The Hof Culture House (pictured above) is a theatre, gift shop and art gallery and the site of various events.

Set along the water at the head of a fjord, the town features some lovely residential streets and has a number of interesting museums, including separate museums devoted to Aviation, Industry, Toys, Motorcycles and Culture. I particularly enjoyed the latter, which provided a great overview of Icelandic residential architecture from its ‘functionalism’ roots.

Like in Reykjavik the campground was located right in town next door to the municipal pool.  The campground was rather crowded so we slipped over to the pool to check out it out. This was a great facility, with one large swimming pool and a number of smaller sitting pools of varying temperatures, even a steam bath. There were lounge chairs and although it was early evening the sun was still high enough to make it possible to enjoy some solar warmth. It was a family facililty with lots of things for kids, including a range of water slide options.

Hamrar Campground south of Akureyri

It was at the reception here I learned that a number of people were coming to the region to attend the ‘Fish Festival’ (“it might be a bit crowded tonight” and it was). The festival was taking place the next day in Dalvik, about 30 km up the fjord north of Akureyri. Not one to pass up a local festival that is how I spent my first solo day in Iceland after Maurice left. As the late morning traffic along the two lane paved road along the fjord leading to Dalvik became bumper to bumper and slowed to a crawl 4 km short of the “village” I realized this was a big event and that parking was going to be a real issue. When I got within walking distance I just put the Defender in 4WD and pulled off the road into the ditch. No one seemed to mind, there were cars everywhere. As I walked the kilometre or so into town I could see that many people had decorated their properties for the occasion with a fish theme, and many had rented space to RVs, tightly squeezed into peoples yards.

Decorated house in Dalvik

There were thousands of people from all over Iceland with a few international tourists mixed in. As they reached the large open space of what appeared to be a fish plant people joined any one of a 1/2 dozen lines to get free helpings of arctic char and cod hot off the barbie. The lines got shorter as the day wore on and the fish kept coming – I ate more arctic char in that single day, all for free, than I have in my whole life.

Live Music ranged from folk trios like this to a choir of fishermen.
Icelanders enjoying the music…..
……and the fish of course

After our first visit to Akureyri Maurice and I first headed back into the highlands


Starting to explore north Iceland – Sauðárkrókur and Grettislaug Hot Spring

 

After exploring the Kjolour Highland route for a couple of days Maurice and I completed our F35 highland crossing and descended into  Sauðárkrókur, a regional service town in the Skagafjörður region of north Iceland.  After the barren highland landscape it was nice to see green again.

One thing I have learned about Iceland is that you are always coming across something unexpected and Skagafjörður presented us with two pleasant suprises.

The first was a local tannery that specialized in drying fish skins.  The Gestastofa Sutarans, which I think may just translate as  ‘Visitor Centre” offers tours of the tannery so visitors like us can see how they dry not only fish skins but also lamb and fox skins.  We had no idea it was possible to dry fish skins, it was really fascinating to learn that the primary customers are upscale fashion houses like Gucci, who use the skins to make designer shoes, handbags, etc.  My watch had broken a couple of days earlier and I was able to  snap up a watch with a strap made from salmon skin, together with another piece of unworked dried piece to take home to Laura to integrate into one of her fabric creations.

Coloured fishskins drying
Lots of Lambskin

The second great surprise about Skagafjörður we discovered as we were exploring  out along the peninsula north of Sauðárkrókur.    Grettislaug, literally Grettis’ Hot Pot, is a natural hot spring located at the end of the gravel road about halfway up the fjord.   It is associated with one of the Icelandic ‘sagas’.   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sagas_of_Icelanders .   Written in the 12th century about life in the “Settlement Era” (870-1200+ ) the authorship of the sagas is uncertain but they  are now apparently considered to be one of the great examples of world literature. Certainly they are the source of much of the knowledge of the history and culture of the period.  Grettis Saga is about an  outlaw who apparently hid in the Skagafjörður area to  evade others seeking revenge for his misdeeds and who spent time in the hot pool.   Today there are two hot pots set in stone, with simple change and shower facilities.  There is also a café and a wonderful campground with a toilet and kitchen facilities set in turf houses.  Really cool.

Another Defender at Grettislaug
The third of many hot springs we enjoyed in Iceland

From Sauðárkrókur we made our way east towards Akureyri, the so-called ‘Capital of the North’ and the second largest city in Iceland.